Hot springs, nudists, and MacDonald’s

It had been hot and getter hotter. I don’t have a way to tell the temperature but due to the amount of sweat that pools in my shoes and runs into my eyes I’d say we’ve had a few 85-95 degree days out here.

Thankfully there has also been water. Friday morning after 10mi of gradual downhill, we rolled into Deep Creek Hot Springs. Amazing hot natural baths to soak my sore feet and a cool crisp creek to jump in as the day got piping. Needless to say I did a few circuits.

And, being a two mile walk to a main road, it does happen to be a favorite of the LA and San Diego nudist communities. Surprisingly, no women between the ages of 22-35 were a part of the nudist representative party that day. Nope. Just men over 45 and of awkward stature who enjoy endless stretching atop the highest most visible rock perch they can garner. As great as the hot springs were, there were a few inappropriate interactions that ultimately spoiled the wonderful springs for me. It was good while it lasted.

I left there and put in another 10mi to set up my next day. I struggled to find a camping spot as the sun set and I walked a steep ridge. Finally, I came upon a nice fella, Starbucks, who had room enough on his flat to let me cowboy camp. I scarfed down some instant mashed potatoes in the dark and passed out exhausted.

I awoke at mile 319 and set out before the sun crested the hills around 5:30. I was shooting for mile 342 where the trail hits I-15 and more importantly where there was a MacDonald’s. It’s remarkable how the fantasies of quarter pounders with cheese and mcflurries can fuel a man’s fire.

At 8:30, I’d already put in decent miles, the sun was already cooking my brain, and I was drenched in sweat. As fortune would have it, at that time I was descending towards Silverwood Lake. I treated myself to a morning dip and dropped my core temperature back down in the chilly lake water. Morning fishermen watched with confused looks. It was a little slice of heaven.

From there it was full steam ahead. At around 1, I was dragging ass and staggered down to Cajon Canyon. The shining golden arches kept me upright all the way into the air conditioned automatic doored greatness of Ronald MacDonald’s Deliciousness factory.

Culture clash ensued. In I walked, backpack high, gaunt, covered in sweat and stinking, to face a mass of clean cut fat jowled Socalers most likely en route to Sin City. They stared. I didn’t care. This was the first time rolling into civilization where the folks weren’t used to rugged hikers. Some folks were intrigued enough to ask. Others were disgusted enough to make their order to go.

No matter to me. I was hammering quarter pounders, chicken sandwiches, and Dr Pepper like woah!! 4 hours later I’d stagger under some interstates and over some train tracks and out of society.

Tomorrow morning some time I’ll be at mi 369 and hitching into Wrightwood, CA. A trucker, Keith, in Big Bear recommended the whiskey at the Racoon Saloon. And by gosh, I think I’ve earned me one.

A la prossima…

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100% of 10% complete

Rolling into Big Bear marks 266 miles down. Sign sealed delivered. I repeat the last 16 days 10 more times and I’ll be skipping into Manning Park Canada happy as a clam at high tide. Please hold your Congrats though. This rodeo is just getting warm.

At mile 200 I was miserable. It was desert, narrow rocky knee crushing downhill for 15 miles. The saving grace? The wind. I love a good strong wind. One that tries to pull you off the ridge. One that sneaks up and tries to steal your hat. Always adds a little excitement to the day. We had plenty of it.

We’d push on that day to another trail Angels house. Ziggy and the Bear! (I like to sing it like Benny and the Jets) We rolled in there dust covered looking like Mad Max banditos and were ordered to sit while our feet were put in hot lavender water soaking tubs, gatorades and fresh fruit forced on us. I may have slammed three things of ranch dipping sauce but it a happened so fast I can’t be sure if wasn’t 4.

The vortex wonderland lasted for 3 hours. And, after elevated feet and extensive stretching, we headed out back out of the desert into the hills. With the sun setting we climbed right next to hills of massive wind turbines. Alien machines harvesting our breath, I’m sure.

More and more up. We climbed 3 days to settle into Big Bear.

Still traveling with the birder. Our paces seem to match well and my slowness gives him ample time to gander at every Bush Tit and Thrasher (Those are actually birds. Look it up).

My health has held. I can say I feel better at mile 266, after 3 consecutive 20+ days, than I did at mile 100. Although, I did get my first blister today out of nowhere. I’m pissed and have to reevaluate my system over here to put an end to that business.

The scenery keeps getting better and more extreme. More mountains ahead but also the Mojave waiting to take a shot at us. Gonna be a good tussle. Hope she’s ready for us.

Now I’m gonna do a bit of polar bearing here and jump in this lake. Outside temp of 44. We’ll see if the water is colder or warmer.

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Catholin’ – A Love Story

Disclaimer: First, this is in no way actually a love story. Second, the subject of this post is bowel movements. If you can’t handle that, you may want to navigate back to buzz feed.

Pooping. Everyone does it. Humans, for as long as I can tell have done it. Babies do it. Your boss does it. Grandma does it. That hot chick in marketing does it. Even Nicholas Cage does it. I know this may be shocking. For some of you, you’ll never look at Nicholas Cage the same, and for that I apologize. But these are just the facts. It serves an important role in maintaining our mediocre health as civilized humans. We all do it and it’s never pretty. Now that you know where I’m going with this, you may want to put your Bagel with jalapeño spread down for a minute.

On the trail it’s called “Catholin”. Some are more discreet than others but generally your trail mate will let ya know “You keep on going, I gotta go catholin”. At this point you know two things: 1. You need to get upwind 2. Your trail mate is entering into a dangerous gamble that could change the entire direction of this day.

Now, performing a movement of the bowels in civilization is like taking 10 minutes at a spa. You bring your favorite reading material, you’re in a quiet safe place where no one will intrude, the rolls of toilet paper seem endless as you relax on that butt shaped porcelain throne that hardly requires you to bend your knees.

On the trail? Oh buddy.

First, you decide that you have to go bad enough to face the dangers. You’ve already waited too long really because you wanted to be sure you don’t go through all the trouble just for a hot aired false alarm. So now you’re almost at red alert mode. Sweats and awkward waddling already in effect.

Second, you must find a place. You look frantically. Is the ground soft enough? Can I dig there? Maybe I can just lift that rock. Is there a snake under that rock? Can anyone see me here? Am I far enough away from the trail? Waddling over bushes, around rocks, tapping your trekking pole like a blind man in the hopes it’ll scare away rattlers, looking around frantically, back and forth. What if I’m too far away? What if there is a trail I don’t know about just below me? What if a group of ten school children on a nice nature walk is about to get their world views shattered when they come around that bend and discover me here…hovering. No time. Train is coming to the station, it has to be here.

Start digging. Gosh I hope there isn’t a wasps nest here or a family of jumping scorpions. I wonder how high a scorpion can jump…can scorpions jump?

Squat over the hole. Wait, seriously? You want me to squat? I’ve sat at a computer or on a lazy boy for the last 18 years of my life and have the flexibility of sheet rock. Now I need to do a full squat and hold it? On this steep grade? And unstable footing? I look around for something to hold onto for balance. I grab some shrubs even though I know they won’t hold. I grab anyway because hope is heartless and dishonest when you’re desperate. I’m already exposed and I just know a Mountain Lion is already tracking me or that school group is coming any second. Lets be honest, probably both. I grab the shrubs and squat.

If you’re lucky, it’s not a false alarm. All goes well and bowels move.

Now, you find yourself exposed with pants at your ankles hovering precariously over a self made death trap grasping to shrubs that are slowly pulling out of the ground like a ticking time bomb and you’re still looking frantically and pathetically in all directions to ensure no one can see you. And now you must wipe. As you reach for your “shit kit” which has your toilet paper, you say a prayer to all Gods that have ever been. It goes something like this: Dear All Gods Ever, please hear me now, please just this once make this an easy wipe, a clean pinch. You pray because you already know. You already know you’re screwed. You already know you were off balance and tilted to one side. You already know the protein bars never treat you well during departure. You already know that you’re down to your last sheets of TP. And so quietly with the focus only fear can provide, you take your first square of TP and wipe. Peering between your legs you almost slip, the shrubs finally pull free from the ground and only by some miracle are you able to windmill your free arm behind you in time to catch yourself. Now you’re doing some sort of one armed backward bend over the aforementioned death trap. You breath a sigh of relief and finally evaluate the results of the first wipe. You’re screwed. You have three more squares before you have to resort to pine needles and sticks. Somehow with that last square you’re adequately clean and you escape the terrible alternatives. Ants are crawling up your legs, your hip is cramping, and your stabilizing arm is beginning to wobble. You roll away from the cat hole and pull up your pants just to realize that you peed all over them. Well at least you weren’t mauled by a mountain lion. You cover your tracks, fill in your hole, and tap your trekking poles back to the trail hoping that once was enough for today.

Just another day in paradise.

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San Jacinto – Done and done

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San Jacinto Peak stands proud at 10,834 feet. Now, that doesn’t require an oxygen tank or a sherpa named Temba but it is the 2nd tallest peak in Southern California and John Muir is reported to have called it’s vista one of the most beautiful he had seen (fyi – that dude knows what’s up).

This morning with light just sneaking into the sky we charged that mound like it sent a heater above the numbers. And, I have to agree with Mr. Muir. It’s a gem.

With an imperial stout and meat lovers pizza in my system from Idyllwild the afternoon prior, the morning charge was tougher than I expected. We left from the saddle at 8110 ft and the altitude got to me a bit right around 9500. Respiration rate increased a bit and legs felt heavy.

The view though is very unique. To the East you have drops to the Palm Springs desert 8000+ ft below, to the south mountain ridges that drop towards the Mexican border, and to the west rolling terrain to San Diego and the ocean.

We enjoyed our time at the top but have plans further north. After the summit, we put in 12 miles to crawl down towards the desert before we climb back up to Big Bear. And so it goes.

Here you see what I’m seeing now, looking back to San Jacinto where I watched the sun rising earlier today.

That’s living.

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Putting the Idle in Idyllwild

Yesterday afternoon we dropped a couple hundo in elevation to resupply in picturesque Idyllwild, CA.

It is a well deserved stop for these weary hikers. The days leading up had been hard and gorgeous ones. We witnessed the transformation from desert to mountain as we climbed from Hwy 74 Palms to Pines up towards the San Jacinto Mountains. The smell of pines and the crisp air at elevation were a welcome change. The rock faces jutting above us through green tree lines is something to behold in contrast to the viewable desert below.

We experienced our first bit of divine trail intervention or “trail magic” on this stretch. We stopped by trail angel Mike’s to refill with water. What unfolded was a veritable hiker paradise. At least a Chase Nelson paradise. Mike was cooking up three squares including pancakes, hot dogs, and chicken, ice cold pink lemonade, tubs of cold water for feet soaking, and to top it all off there was some rifle shooting in the back yard. We enjoyed 4 hours here before pushing on in the cooler afternoon. Magical.

The trail culture is growing on all of us as most people are assuming a trail name by this point. There’s Bird Man, Lalabi, Yardsale, Leftovers, Dinner Time, Archie, Laptop and plenty more hilarious handles.

I’ve got a couple handles being thrown around that I’ll share at a later date.

Headed out towards Big Bear today. Sometime in the next week I’ll be cruising in there for a dip in the lake.

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Pain on the trail – Hitch in the giddy-up

Blisters, ankle sprains, strained IT bands, severe chafing – you name it, someone’s got it. And, remarkably, they are probably still crushing 10-20 up and down, in and out, rock and sand miles a day.

At mile 90 my right hip started killing me. Started as some sort of pinch or muscle spasm. It developed into a sharper pain as I pushed it another 20 miles. Taking 24 hours off in Warner Springs, I had some time to think about it. I really wasn’t sure what to do.

Other hikers were popping Ibuprofen daily, taping up blisters, or wrapping ankles. I’ve had plenty of injuries but never issues with my hips.

My thoughts ran wild. I scared myself into thinking my hip would dislocate. As the pain worsened while I rested, I feared my trip would be over before it really began. I was surrounded by wounded warriors though. There had to be a way to press on and get better.

It was simpler than I thought. Along with a daily dose of Arnica Montana, improving my stretching and strength routine in the mornings was the answer.

With both ankle and knee surgeries on my right leg, I have years of bad form that developed to protect those injuries during their respective recoveries. Most notably, certain quad and hamstring muscles don’t engage in my normal gait. This removes my knee as a spring as I walk and instead the impact travels directly to the hip. Almost as if my legs had a single  rod from foot into the hip joint.

I’d worked on this a bit with the instructors at San Francisco Crossfit in the past and had a few solid yoga exercises recommended to me prior to the trip.

Experimenting for about 6 hours with different stretches and exercises, I found the following to quickly reduce my pain at rest as well as during walking:

- Prisoner squats: all the way down and all the way up popping the hips forward at the top. Ensuring a tight stomach and core throughout.

- One Legged Airplane: Standing on a single leg and tightening core and leg muscles before bending at the hip and kicking other leg straight back as torso bends forward. With arms out to your side for balance you look like an airplane. Repeat without setting other foot down as many times as you can.

- Lunge Stretch: there is some proper yoga name and a different proper Crossfit name for this but I forget both. Essentially, you do a lunge and hold it bringing your arms up over your head into a slight backbend. Good to engage balancing muscles in both legs and ankles as well as stretch the front of the hip and its connections in your torso.

- Hip Openers: pick your favorite.

Ultimately, you’re pounding the heck out of your body and in most cases your body isn’t used to it. I figure the trick will be continuing a preventive routine morning, breaks, and night. I anticipate my body adapting positively to the type of work it’s doing daily but still always requiring some active rebalancing.

Out here in week one, misery has plenty of company. I’m far from alone.

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100 Down

Around mile 90 the ol’ hip started giving me trouble. The right hip. But something had to give after two 25 mile days in a row, and the 3rd day in 4 of over 20 miles. The feet were aching but just as you’d expect. I was still blister free so I thanked the trail Gods. That’s some trail magic. I limped across the 100 mile marker – stones arranged next to the trial shaping 100 with smiley faces in the 0′s. A mile later, entering the valley floor with towering oaks and a dried out sandy creek bed, The sun settled in its place for the night, the sky hardly dimming as the Full moon took its place, and I ate peppered beef jerky wrapped in tortillas with fresh garlic. The last of my food purchased 72 hours earlier.

It had started with a whole lot of exuberance. A whole lot of excitement. Enough to carry me 20 miles from the Mexican border. Border patrol watched with binoculars drawn as I shook hands with Marko James and set off north. A wall of sheet metal in my rear view, desert shrubs surrounding me, I began walking.

Truly, it’s flown by. The details to record are endless. The types of lizards scurrying underfoot and into the brush, the heat beating down, the dryness chapping your lips and your nose, the dust kicking up with each gust of wind, the sweat and dirt in the palms of your hands and collecting in your shoes. I passed a few folks and was passed by just as many. All of that would stay the same day in and day out. Ultimately, day 1 ended at Lake Morena as the sun set. I was straight to bed camping amongst over 20 thru-hikers who had left that same weekend.

As the days have passed, a troupe of approximately 10-15 of us have been traveling roughly the same pace. We’ll stack up at water sources or shade for lunch or just a breather. Perhaps not seeing some for 24 hours or more then seeing them again enjoying a rest and a view at the top of a ridge. I’ve found myself walking with a birder from Arizona, Jed. A very knowledgeable fellow my age who can school me on most wildlife and plant life as we go.

Day 1, I was startled twice by rattlers on the trail. Less than 6 feet a way, the big guys made a stink but snuck off before I could get my camera out and ready. I was enlisted to help a French man get his unruly donkeys (surprise) across a wooden bridge. After minutes of pulling and yelling, we moved on unsuccessful and wished him luck as we went. Could be a long walk for that man although I hope he catches up with those donkeys, his accent and his guitar.

Day 2, I mostly hiked alone and enjoyed taking my time for a shorter day. Rabbits hopped along the trail next to me as I started out and crickets hopped in front of me. A day of steady up hill towards Mt. Laguna, I found a nice pine grove at the edge of a meadow to make my camp.

The rest of the 100 miles, we gorgeous but not much I recount here or now. Most remarkably of this stretch perhaps, was, with whipping winds throwing dust at us, 10 of us hunkered down for a restless night under a highway bridge. A hobo dream finally realized for all of us. It was a blessing and truly some trail magic.

And now I rest. I rest a tired body, weary joints, muscles worn, and spirit tested.

Catch ya down the trail.

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Navy Seal O Course – PCT Training

I’m going to share a little secret with you all. I usually charge for this coveted information. But, today I’m feeling generous. Here is my trademarked and world renowned Pacific Crest Trail Training Regime:

  • Eat your favorite foods to excess
  • Sit still and research a physical activity for at least 7 hours a day
  • Watch YouTube videos of Red Pandas
  • Breath hard walking up a single flight of stairs

In all and against all advice, I’ve done almost no training for this trip. So, I figured the only way to make up for that was to join ex-Navy SEAL and current SEAL Instructor Mark James on their Navy Obstacle Course. The good news: I didn’t break anything and I’m a more humble man today than I was yesterday. The bad news: my forearms and grip will be compromised for at least a week and I got beat by a 10 year old on every obstacle. Kids a freak though, I swear. Must have grown up with a diet of nails washing it down with moonshine. Tough Oey.

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Go time: San Diego Bound

Up until 3:30am last night getting map and resupply drops ready. No time like the last minute to handle your navigational and nutritional needs. I’m now dependent on my mother for these critical drops. Let’s be honest, I couldn’t be in better hands.

All my stuff fits in the bag. The bag made it through airport security with my trauma sheers, trekking poles, and nail clippers. Growing up watching MacGuyver (sp), you can go ahead and consider me armed and dangerous.

Airports are always the best goodbye to the “civilized” world as people are often at their worst in these environs. Constant scowls, exuding impatience, overcharging for coconut water, and breathing in my reserved space. Just terrible.

And so it begins, as it is so apt to do, with a bit of excitement, some steely nerves, a salty distaste for SFO, and the prospect of feral pleasures in Tijuana.

Strike “the feral pleasures in Tijuana.” Add “a lot if hiking”.

I’m headed for San Diego.

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